telling it as it is – the blog

Today, the 20th July 2010 marks the day of Independence when 200 years ago to this day Colombia claimed independence from Spain. From written accounts ( you will understand whilst I am old I am not ancient ) the Llorente’s vase incident sparked the uprising that lead to open hostility and disdain of Spanish rule. So from the city  of Santa Fe de Bogata ( where we will be arriving tomorrow  through the courtesy of the national airline Avienca ) came the birthplace of a new dawning from the colonial power Granada Espanol.( Spain)

It would have been interesting times I am sure for the new Republic, and whilst the celebrations here in Popayan have been somewhat low key and muted, the military might and power of Colombia was there for all to see in an impressive  parade in the capital Bogata today.

From semi running troops all armed to the teeth with  total body camaflage to the myrid of fighter planes: Mirage Fighter Jets to Black Hawk Helicopters the parade televised live was impressive to say the least. From a nation with no fighter jets or military attack capabiliies this was a sight worth seeing , sadly from a distance.

My mind went back to 2005 when we were in Santiago , Chile , where the military march pass lasted 5 hours or more. Here in Popayan, a tiny city in comparison to the 12 million of near neighbour Bogata the parade was all over in an hour.

Mind you the church service went  longer than planned and the concert of Andean Culture Music and dance was washed out by a mid afternoon deluge of rain.,soaking the hundreds who made their way back to their home in a variety of third world transportation devices , although I must say the 50cc Vesper motor scooters( a favourite especially with the young ladies) seem to be the most prevalent along with the many bright yellow taxis, which  were carrying family members and friends during this national holiday. ( espcially when it rained)

Popayan is small… population 240,000. Situated 1740 metres above sea level in a corridor of Andean Mountains this city is said to be the second most beautiful city behind Cartagena to which I have described previously. I would agree, this little city is beautiful….and the main tourist area is so compact being contained in a 10 block square radius. It is a stunning city with white facades and it reminded me of Cuenca another world heritage city in neighbouring Ecaudor.

All the buildings are painted white, with black metal railings and balconies. At night ornate yellow street lights come on giving the town a subdued golden glow whilst the many churches and cathedrals are spot lit  their bell towers and spires in rich blue.

But like Cuenca it is the facination of what is behind these mainly Oak doors that are drawn closed after trading for the day ends. Unlike many of the other cities that we have visited with their metal pulldown canopies that are greffited and padlocked at the bottom, this classy city exhudes charm and judging by the cleaniness…. pride.

Behind the doors are magnicent court yards , many with native flowers and plants growing in abundance. Tiled walkways, waterfalls and fountains abound, and where the doors when opened…. reveal shops many are oppulent with quality products and designer clothers and footware for sale.

It must have been so difficult for the early settlers to survive here. Despite its springlike all year round climate, the early settlers choose to grow sugar beet, along side the major river than transends the valley.It rapidly grew as a prosperous trade centre , but also a religious centre with many churches, monistries and seminaries. .

The economic importasnce of Popayan waned but it retained its cultural importance. In 1983 a devestating earthquake flattened all but one church and did major damage. It is a glowing tribute to the city fathers and the people of Popyan that a massive reconstruction took place restoring all damaged buildings to their former glory.

It must have been so easy for them to have contemplating walking away from the rubble and starting from scratch  somewhere less prone to earthquakes.

As I conclude this blog from three stories up watching an endless stream of people walking, driving or motorcycling home I cannot but try to imagine the thoughts going through each  persons mind.

The rain will have ruined for most, who came the very reason for coming maybe miles to listen and watch the concert thast was planed. No one will be here for the next 200 year concert and very very few even for the next celebration in 100 years time if they jn fact have one.

Maybe they are not bothered too much. Maybe concerts such as todays are washed out by rain often.

The final observation must be the way things are done here in this tranquel valley, Three words very very slowly. No one moves fast. And when things are done there are many many people who are  used to do the work…..like over 20 men and women to hold a hose to water blast clean the town square brickwork ( maybe 2 at the most would be used in the western world ).

And the town square which started its facelift 4 years ago.. has only just been completed.

Maybe it is the lifestyle, maybe the heat or maybe Manyana and the mid day sisesta rest times….but whatever it is Colombians will not be rushed…..and I will write with more observations soon.

In the meantime Rush to Tell someone you love them, Be slow to Anger And may Persistance be the thing that like the people of Popayan exhibited in 1983 be your hall mark!!!

Lindsay Walker.

20th July 2010.

This entry was posted on Tuesday, July 20th, 2010 at 10:06 pm and is filed under History, Travel. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.