telling it as it is – the blog

Before I start… thank you to all my readers who offered sympathy over my Roman Sandal Dilemma. It is a scary feeling knowing your next step at 50 mm above pavement level might be your last …….and for the next 10 weeks you might be reduced to hobbling the cobbles.

Some of your suggestions I had to disperse with fairly hurriedly …  such as take them to the nearest dry-dock           ( ship yard) and let the ship builders go to work on them….to use them as land fill for the 2016 Summer Olympic Games….  land fill indeed! If they were to be buried it would be in my home town in my back garden so that in a thousand years times people could marvel at the size of  year 2000 Millennium mans feet.

But as always we had a change of plan brought on by the postponement of today’s visit to the Compassion project until tomorrow. Up until now everything as regards travel through the many countries we have visited to date has gone without a hitch….but since we have arrived in Brazil it has been a little like teeth pulling.

It was a beautiful fine but surprisingly cool day in Recife at 7am this morning. But it suddenly changed to overcast then down came the rain….not torrential and not for very long…..but heavy enough to force you to shelter in  doorways until it stopped. Then out came the sun and dried up all the rain…….you know the rest of the rhyme.

And so at 9.25am we reverted to plan  “B ” …..why not visit the old town of Recife…..away from the” touristy ” beachy scene of Boa Viagem…..although to be fair we are not on the beach but in a modest hotel several blocks back. I have already commented about the huge shopping malls that cater for largely the tourists ( except those with Grandee Feet!!!) and the fact that no one was buying because the prices are ultra excessive.

So rather today was all about going to where the ” normal” not so affluent people lived worked and shopped. Today we would see whether Brazil was truly expensive……as we had seen for the time we had been here in Recife  as well as Campinas and Sao Paulo.

As is the norm, we jumped on a local bus….making all sorts of funny noises as to where we would like to go….interspersed with Dalaine rapidly thumbing her way through a Portuguese/ English Dictionary to find one or maybe  two words that would light up the eyes of the poor hapless victim we had hobnailed  to help us.

We found much to our delight a huge market like area with lots of little shops ( including a very dishevelled shoe repair  shop ….a cross between Steptoe and Sons Yard and a recycle centre featuring just shoes. But the thing that was really interesting was the prices were a whole lot better than the malls we had visited  in the more tourist orientated area of Boa Viegen.It was also a whole lot more fun. We had banter with the people in the shops , we had a really nice meal for  USD 4 each and for a dollar more each a large glass of Pina …Pineapple  or   in Brazil Abacaxi …..which when chilled would be one of most refreshing tropical drinks we have ever tasted.

So as we have found all through our South American visits…. if you really want to see the culture and get the best value for your dollar, Peso or  Euro….go to where the locals shop, eat and work…..and watch and observe how they shop and watch what they are buying. Unless you speak fluent Portuguese you will struggle to communicate effectively but even if you can only speak a few words …they will flash their amazing smiles and laugh along with /at you.

And the comment of Brazilians going blind……well that comes from a walk along a street in the old city of Recife  where the whole street ( maybe 80 shops) are optimist’s ….side by side on both sides of the street …all stocked with hundreds if not thousands of glasses in each shop.

Even whilst  having seen similar shops selling similar products in Hong Kong way back there in May….I had never seen one whole street with so many shops selling the same products …in this case spectacles.

I didnt ask for prices …..but I daresay if you are sight impeared the small print on the price tag regarding the question of price won’t really matter.  And are Brazillians going blind ????……..Can’t say…. I am not an expert on the subject…..it maybe just the people of sun drenched Recife and Olinda.

Will talk to you again soon. Something really interesting  we observed today in Olinda

Lindsay Walker

3rd September 2010.

My size 15 (grandee) Roman sandals are slowly falling to bits. You will remember what a crucial  role these sandals have played in my life for the past 4 months of intense use, in places described in a previous blog from Paris ” Sitting In The Place Of Presidents In My Roman Sandals” to walking the steep streets of La Paz , Bolivia. And it is in all probability these steep streets in the rarefied air of Bolivia’s capital that have almost put paid to my best and only means of footwear . Already my Nike  running shoes Size  American 50 , have been given the heave…. so we are in much prayer that these cheap but very practical articles of footwear will hold up for the remaining 2 months of travel.
I can understand Colombians, Ecuadorians, Peruvians and Bolivians  not having footwear my size ….but Brazil??? The Brazilian  Men’s Basketball Team have some huge guys in it ( they came within 2 points of beating the USA world champion team, in the World championships yesterday)….but every where we go it is  a polite shake of the head and a softly spoken Nao when it comes to replacing my Roman Sandals.

Tomorrow we visit our last Children’s  Compassion project this time in Olinda , which is approx 7 kms from where we are now in Recife, North East Brazil .We will be visiting Yasmin our very special little girl ( they all are) who we visited in 2007 , and I am sure she is excited at seeing us again. We had such an incredible meeting the last time and meeting her grandmother ( who cares for her) as well as her mother was pretty emotional to say the least.

The home ( where Yasmin and  her grandmother lives) is in the poorest of the poor area …..and flooding is prevalent, especially this time of the year. It is on a flood plane and was a council dump that poor people simply went and squattered on.  Gradually dwellings went up ( houses is too grand a word for what they are) and before long the area became  packed with civilization. Last time we travelled to her home,raw sewage was flowing down the sides of the footpaths, so this time it is important that my Roman sandals preform well along with  several plastic bags and antiseptic tape on the soles of my feet to prevent risk of severe  infection that could be life threatening.

But more about the visit in a future blog.

Brazil this time has disappointed us. A number of incidents where we were ripped off ( it takes a lot because we are pretty astute and travel wise) . But  the cost of goods and services have increased by at least 30% from our last visit 3 years ago.   It is no longer a cheap place to live, or visit especially when compared to its Andean neighbours. It  made us appreciate how fortunate we are in countries like our home in New Zealand to have The Warehouse, Clothing Warehouse, Stationary Warehouse and the like. Prices there compared to Brazil are a third of the price and the selection is huge.And I think I have found out why this is so.

Brazil exports a huge amount of product…oil, minerals, steel and much more. In vast amounts. A lot goes to China. But in return I believe Brazil  insists on hard currency or at the least on items that will enhance their economy.This is why to us commodities  appear expensive (exercise books for the project costing USD 6 each which frankly are not worth any more than USD1.50 ).There was nothing in this huge super mall ( which we were told was the cheapest in Recife) that was cheap. We spent R$35 (USD 20) but it took us a hour to source things that were reasonably priced.

It is obvious to me that the reason things in Brazil are more expensive is because they are not ” made in China” . We found nothing with that label on . And we have spent a lot of time looking.

And that is a whole lot different to what happens in countries like the United States Of America, Australia and New Zealand. We are countries driven by consumerism. We lap up things made in China because they are cheap.

I will post a link showing a huge container ship berthing  in a port in the United States with as many as 15,000 full containers on board.  Several days later the same ship returned to the Chinese port it had come from with the same 15,000 containers but the giveaway was the Plimsoll line ( how high the ship rode in the water)….it was clearly evident for the wise and enquiring to see ….there was nothing in the containers going back to China from  American manufacturers …..and I daresay going back in those empty containers were the jobs of US workers.

When we were here in 2007 ( and for a lesser time in 2005) we were horrified at what Brazilians were eating. They  eat huge amounts of  cake and bread served in buffet form at breakfast. At lunch it is followed by Pizza , or Spaghetti, Pasta ….washed down by 100% Coke Cola. Like in 3 litre plastic bottles.

The supermarket was awash with Coke Products …..a woman in her late 40′s had 25 lites of the stuff in her trolley ( the same 3 litre aforementioned) all containing copious amounts  of Sodium ….a product what induces added thirst in the person who drinks it.

And guess what ???…. the belly/ weight  size of Brazilians has increased…..in many cases alarmingly so. Some matching the Obesity crisis effecting the Southern States of the USA in particular.  We will never be able to get it through to Brazilians…..the language barrier is too huge  but I know we would get it through to the Colombians and Peruvians as they understand the overloading of Carbohydrates and Starch. And that Coke is bad for you. Both in terms of what it contains and the amounts that people drink.

We are very aware of food that is and is not good for you as a result of Dalaine being allergic to Gluten that is found in wheat. This Gluten if eaten causes Dermatitis and I have seen her react with a rash within 30 seconds. Too  much and it would make her extremely ill… it could even be life threatening. So being Gluten Free for he  is not a ” lifestyle ” choice but one of necessity.

Being Gluten free ( or Gluten intolerant) is a pain in the butt!…. particularly for her. And nowhere is it more of a pain then being in Brazil where eating bread , cakes and wheat plays such a huge part in their lives. And finding Gluten Free product is virtually impossible.

If you want to add weight eat bread……if you want to see what drinking Coke does to you put some Coke and a Rusty nail in a dish overnight and watch the results.

If you want Diabetes consume the sugar in the amounts the Western world consume and you will understand why it has become an Epidemic with our young people.

I am not on a crusade here……I am just telling you my valued readers what I see , by ” telling it as it is “.
It is funny how this Blog has gone from my Sandals to my dear Wife’s Eating Habits.

So from a very warm 30degrees ” Winters” day in Recife Brazil, I will bid you good afternoon…..

Lindsay Walker

31st August 2010.

PS …. Another thing we  have noticed there are  no frozen vegetables  here …except in one supermarket the odd bag of ice encrusted peas….rather we saw freezers jammed packed with Pizza’s.

Another PS….this time in response to a  blog sent to me by our special little  9 year old  reader        ” Brownie “  from Mass USA ….. who tells me that Apples are more effective that Coffee at waking you up in the mornings…….

This current 6 month , 14 country travel odyssey is our third visit to South America in 5 years.

Many ask us how we can afford to travel so far, so often, to which we answer but by the grace of God we are here, along with hard saving and a great innovation called Airline Air-points.

We have also in the last two visits had a reason for travel, that is as advocates of the wonderful Compassion/ Tear Fund Children Christian support program,to which we have been able to visit and see projects that the children we personally sponsor are in. It is the largest understatement to simply say ” it was a life changing experience”….. it was far far more than that particularly in terms of  share emotion both in seeing the children , being moved by what is being done for these children in terms of health, hygiene, schooling and Christian Education…….but being overwhelmed by the size of the need.

It has been very very hard as a person( persons) to simply walk away ” not being able to do something about it “. Whether this was to fix the leaking roof, improve living conditions that must be unbearable in the rainy season , to equally unbearable in the hot dry season, provide dry bedding , or the thousand and one requirements required to run the project.

In the projects the  light relief in the terms of making animals with the skinny balloons we had brought from New Zealand , must have been a miniscule distraction in the hard life or poverty and the harsh reality that every day is a fight and  a struggle to survive.

It is impossible to describe what we have seen merely by putting words on paper …..it is a shame the dust, pollution, stench and heat and hardship could not be itched on the screen  on which  you are reading this posting.

In the west we get ” depressed ” pretty easily. Most of us need a session of retail therapy. It might mean going to the supermarket to buy food….because buying food makes us feel better.

It might be going to the mall to buy ” things…..clothes, cosmetics, electrical or electronics….because we have the ability to do so , rather than the  need  for them  is a  life and death  necessity.

The people in poor countries….such as most of what we have seen in Colombia/ Ecuador/Peru and Bolivia have no choices, no where to run, no where to hide …..unless there are people who as individuals take on the smallest possible denominator ….one ….one child ….and make a difference in that child’s  life. We have seen the huge difference in the children we sponsor not only  in terms of academic achievement , but also self esteem and self worth.

Provided their levels of determination can be maintained ( the reason why it is critical to keep up our letter writing to them) ….there is no reason why they cannot be the doctor, the teacher the minister ….that  three  of our sponsored children aspire to be.

It is absolutely essential   that they are kept out of the poverty trap, the sticky web that is all around them on a daily basis does not draw them into what for many has been an inter-generational phenomena.

There has also got to be a huge attitudinal shift in the mind set of the male….not only South America but globally. Too many males see young women as conquests to be used for their sexual satisfaction only to discard them when they become pregnant , fat or old. So many children at projects that we have visited  do not have fathers….many for that very reason.

The majority of the little girls that come running to me and hug and hold me tight….are devoid of the fatherly contact, affirmation, being told how beautiful they are and to be cherished and protected as the little princesses they undoubtedly  are.

And as Princesses they deserve protection, they deserve to aspire to the dreams that little girl

( and little boys ) have.  And they deserve to be given the very basics of life. Princesses live in Castles ( and Palaces) . We have met thousands of princesses but none of them live in anything like Palaces…some even started life dumped to die in a pile of stinking rotten garbage , or being left in a cardboard box . ( refer to an earlier blog ).

We have travelled a lot of countries not only this trip but in my case  over 40 years.

It is nice to see the great sights of the world, but it is the people that fascinate us. Understanding what they are doing , where they are going. Their dreams and aspirations.

We have been ( particularly on this trip) to places that few foreigners  get to visit. To get to talk to people  few westerners get to talk to. To eat local food in local surroundings with local people at prices the locals pay.

And most importantly to allow God to place his helpers in the form of Earthly angels in our path for a very special purpose. Like out of the blue a bus driver asks several ladies standing on the side walk whether they can make ” head or tail” out of what I was asking him….. which was ” Was I on the right bus from Sao Paulo’s Guarulhos Airport to Campinas ” a satellite city of 1 million people a two hour drive   from this sprawling metropolis of 20 million plus people.

Not only did the young lady speak English (helped by her studying  for 3 months in Canada  for an archetectual degree ) helping us buy tickets ( some 4oo metres away in a obscure ticket booth) she  boarded the exact same coach as us……and wait for it….. after many possible stops alighted at exactly the same stop as us, and hailed a taxi for us. All without wanting favour from us.

And for those saying she got off at our stop just to help us….well she did have 2 large cases and had just flown in from Buenos Aires so it would not have been possible to backtrack to where she was going …on a bus that had travelled some 150kms in the 2 hours we were on it.

And this ” co-incidence ” has not just happened once but time and time again. We call it being blessed!

We have found Brazil very expensive from when we were here 3 years ago. Particularly food , clothes ( we have bought none) even low cost accommodation has increased .

Yes we were spoilt in Columbia and Ecuador  in particular where we would  buy a meal to sustain us for as low as  USD 3 EACH.

Despite being very seasoned travellers and wiry travellers we have been stung by food prices in Brazil particular through lack of Portuguese and shop owners preying on the fact that we were unable to communicate.

We have struggled to keep eating ” right “. We are currently in Brazil where breakfasts are hugely weighted in favour of bread, cake, carbohydrates and starch. Laced with coffee this makes a very imbalanced start to the day especially if it is followed by pizza , pasta and  fries and most likely sugar and sodium enriched Coke.

We noticed the same tendency in eating habits when we were last in Brazil in 2007 and again prior to that   in 2005. People are not eating right . Simply put they do not eat the right foods. And their bodies are paying for it.

In Brazil there are some really beautiful looking young people. But it is a rarity to see beautiful looking middle aged people and  by the time they reach old age they have either died  or their bodies have given up.

We have found no vegetables served in   Brazil. In super markets there are no frozen vegetables .

Interestingly plenty of fruits ( we loved the plentiful supply of Avocados) but in Peru , Bolivia, Ecuador and Colombia there  too was an absence of vegetables….   with the exception of beans. There was corn ( pretty hard and old)  , and potatoes  ( carbohydrates again) but no really nutritional vegetables such as Carrots, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Silver Beet, Beetroot, Parsnips, Swedes, and Peas and  many others.

No one seems keen to educate people  in both poorer Andean Countries and in much more affluent Brazil….ironically  the growing conditions( soil, rain and sun) are ideal.

In the western world our children have access to fresh nutritional  vegetables at affordable prices,  but many chose instead  to feast on  junk food . And the price in terms of good health has no boundaries to those why chose to ignore  at their peril the things that they are gifted and are good for them.

Truly the best and only way of Defying The Aging Process.

I will write again soon….thanks for reading!

Lindsay Walker

Guaruja. Brazil

28th August 2010

This theme was going to be Sleepless in Bolivia…..but due to a blockbuster Holywood film  of a similar name ( Sleepless in Seattle) I thought it prudent to keep to my original idea about being a lttle out of of breath in the worlds highest Capital city.

Of the whole 6 month itinerary; that includes visits to some 54 cities, this section of a very complex and in some ways complicated itinerary ,was always  going to be  the most challenging.

But without doubt our time in neighbouring Peru had prepared us to high altitude living with visits to two nearby cities of close the 12,500 feet above sea-level    ( Julica and Puno )..please refer to my last blog. The main reason for visiting La Paz was really to use that city as a means  to fly to Sao  Paulo the gateway city to our next country that we  will vist for 7 weeks ….. Brazil….primarily to visit a Compassion child that we sponsor in Olinda and to also see one child also in Olinda that my brother Russell sponsors through the same program.

We also wanted to see a very special young lady in Fortaleza ( Ana ) who we meet and fell in love with the last time we were in her city in 2007.

Brazil is very very special to us, we love the people , enjoy the weather and have never had reason to feel threatened in any way, despite the fact that 95% of the people cannot understand a word of English ( and if they do, they cannot understand our accents!!)  But it is always great fun making Brazilians laugh with their incredible smiles and  facial expressions trying to  understand these two  aging Antipodean Global Explorers  .

But back to La Paz.

Before we arrived , we had to have another all day adventure….. this time not by air travel, but rather a coach,followed by a bus and a very questionable sea worthy vessel across Lake Titicaca. For only USD 30 per person this represented very good value for money as well as great entertainment value.

I must say coach travel has never been one of my favourite means of travel, mainly due to the fact that only 2 or maybe three seats in a 45 seater coach that really  agrees with my almost 2 metre frame.

So at 7.30 am on a cool Puno morning it was really important to use a strategy that  for all intention purposes was going  to maximise personal confort on  maybe a 10 hour + gruelling day. A women/ man ???….sometimes it was hard to get a real fix on things at that time… walked onto the bus and sat down. Entrances to these coaches ( Pan Americano) is through a door midpoint of the coach on the right side . There is a glass partition between driver and passengers accessed by a glass door that is either locked or at the very  minimum  controlled by the driver. For all intention purposes we could be having a riot whilst the driver could be swinging and singing along to some high volume Spanish noise ….. (aka  music) oblivious to what is going on behind him.

So with the supposed queue to board ….it was all on board …..Dalaine and I scurried aboard taking seats 15 and 16 …the seats with maximum legroom behind the  above mentioned door. Everyone else trailed in after us with no apparent seating plan logic. It appeared as we thought     ” first in best dressed ” . As a precaution ( and the result of a Dalaine premonition) I cast a fleeting  glance at our ticket and disguised within a whole lot of Spanish that made no sense to Exclusive English Speakers like ourselves, were the numbers 5 and 6.

So as an additional  precaution I took the only action possible in a time like this, and with a deft stoke from a perfectly matching blue ball point pen added the number 1 to both tickets making them 15 and 16.

And that is where you good readers would  think the matter would end. But it didnt !.

Despite there being other seats in the coach available ( which I am sure would have been equally comfortable)  two rather diminutive French tourists got on board and INSISTED that we were in the wrong seats ……and that they were  indeed the owners of precious seats 15 and 16.

It is amazing how dumb and ignorant and non communicative one can be at an altitude of 3862 metres at 7.30am, at the same time gestulating  at all the other wonderfully comfortable  free seats that they could chose from.

The driver thinking he was doing the world a favour and not wanting to cause a worsening in Anglo / French relationships ( not realizing that it was in fact Kiwi (New Zealand / Franco relationships at stake here) decided to go to the ticket issuing office to try to sort out this obviously major highlight in what would  have been a routine drive from Puno to La Paz.

Whether he made it to the ticket office ( or was diverted to a toilet relief stop) I do not know , but somehow it returned and ruled in our favour….which was in reality 7 Spanish words and a shrug of his shoulders ).

With a few French glares( and Dalaine insisting that we should glue ourselves to our seats for the next 10 hours we took of f  ) ……my legs performing beautifully in a long stretched out pose….whilst our french friends obviously resolved to their slightly more confined positon either smouched themselves silly ( or slept ) until the coach reached  the first major stop …….the Peruvian/ Bolivian Border.

This border is really a long steep dusty peice of road  with many roadside vendors trying to sell you every conceivable peice of handicraft ….to effectively relieve you of your every last Sol-        ( local Peruvian currency).  Failing that there  were currency traders wanting to make ” a deal” to trade Sol for Boliviano ( currency for Bolivia).

The procedure was quite siomple….all off the coach ( I could tell a lie by saying we were pantless because of the glued clothes sticking to the seat )…..but in reality anywhere in the high plateau of Peru meant we really struggled to breath….the dust and dirt, the bus fumes and of course the lack of oxygen because of the height above sea level.

So we all walked and joined a large queue at the Perivian Immigration having filled out the manatory documentation Form as to why and how we were leaving what to us was one of the best counties of the 10 that we had so far visited. Then after getting Passsport stamped, it was off to the office next door for exactly the same procedure and another stamp.

From there we wandered like stray sheep up the hill and judging by the Welcome To Bolivia sign ( In Spanish) it was off to the Immigration office of Bolivia for a rapid fire  passport stamping session ( everyone got a stamp)  then off down the hill this time to try to locate our coach. When we return to New Zealand I will post a lot of photographs that show the process in colour.

Once located we departed in the same coach and from the demeanor or our French colleagues all seating difficulties were long forgotten.

If you asked me was there a dramatic change in scenery from the Peruvian side of the border to now the Bolivian side the answer would have to be no. It was very much a case of more of the same.

Around 12..30pm we arrived in Copacabana …a Lake Titicaca resort town on the Bolivian side.

Having been to Rio de Janerio and stayed  in Copacabana it was very obvious the two were very unrelated. Being aware that eating from the side walk vendors was very inadvisable we basically survived on very little waiting instead to eat in a more safe place in La Paz …still some 5 hours away.

The highlight ???  upon leaving Copacabana was to ” downsize”  to a much smaller  ” bus” with the words Milton Hotel and Tours. Immediately we recognised the name as being ther same as the hotel/ hostel we were staying at La Paz ( costing a mere  USD 16 per person a night including  breakfast  )….at  least we were heading along the right track.

Sitting where we were we could now see ( in our new seats right behing the driver) all the fancy driving moves  that were going to take place over the next few hours.

Our French adversaries along with a number of other travellers from La Paz had left the coach in Copacabana but we had been joined by a number of ” pickups” which made this little coach packed. It certainly sagged under the weight of luggage ( including our bags which was hitting all up 53 Kilos.) (We are still weighted downed with gifts for the Compassion Project in Olinda which we brought from New Zealand).

The driving techniques on this section of the trip bordered on stupidity/ and  ridiculousness .

Peru and Bolivia like must countries drive on the right side of the road…..but our driver, in order to obviously save time would drive on the left side ( across double yellow lines) ‘ warning” on coming traffic by tooting as he neared the blind corners……not once or twice but in fact every corner on his shift. We could only look at each other in amazment.  Thank goodness our daily prayers include our need for daily protection….because it was only by a miracle we were not involved in a head on bus/ bus, bus/ truck bus/car collision.

Interesting we were asked on this section of the trip for our names and passport numbers ….the only reason on reflection maybe to notify next of kin if we went off the road and down some of the huge vertical drops that would have certain death if (a) the driver hit another vehicle  or (b) misjudged the speed or (3) had a mechanical malfunction.

We arrived at rather pleasant  town to which we disembarked from our coach and paid about  USD 2  for the pleasure of crossing Lake Titicaca to continue on route to La Paz. We were transferred by small power boats with about 20 passengers each from not only our coach but many others who had arrived just before us. I know that the sea ( Lake) worthiness would have been questioned in many Western countries ( no cowling on the motor ) exposing the fly wheel etc……over crowding, no life jackets etc….but in the interests of staying up with our coach  (which had been barged across in what looked like an equally non sea worthy vessel) we just smiled and did  another one  of our health and safety prayers.

After rounding up all those on our bus……no head count …it was simply a case of ther driver taking off…..we headed along a reasonably high and flat plateau. As with much of Peru and Bolivia we saw houses and people who were obviously poor and who lived in conditions that we in the Western world would not survive in.

At 5pm we came into a built up area….houses, buildings ( all in red brick) many derelict , old cars, belching buses with clouds of smoke…dust, dirt and rubbish…..we must be getting close.

Within minutes we swept down from the high plateau ( around 4,000 metres ) into a valley and what could only be described as one of  the most spectacular entrances to any city in the world. Thousands and thousands of houses completely fill this huge basin making the estimated total population close to a million. What makes this city so impressive is the way it is  so compacted ,houses that appear on top of one another  all painted  in muted tones of red. The drive around the rim and to the bottom of the valley is one of our all time lasting memories.

Chaos both in terms of traffic and people are the hall makes of La Paz, and whilst there are some I am sure who enjoy living in such surrounds , Dalaine and I will not be returning. Dalaine having Asthma  found it really hard certainly climbing  some really step streets with all the dust dirt and fumes.

And for me….that wasn’t the real problem …..rather the noise and having a real hard time getting to sleep. Readers would enjoy the Milton Hotel…it is central, an interesting Indigenous market right out on the very long street in front of  the hotel. It is hard to warm to Bolivian people….in the two nights we were there I could raise only one laugh from a local….it was almost Ecuador revisited  in that department. But seriously take earplugs …..the noise in the wee small hours is incredible.

A man sweeps all the rubbish from the markets into the gutter. He starts  around 6pm ( when it is almost dark) and finishes some 6 or so hours later. No problem with a man and a broom …but the garbage trucks arrive around midnight and  with motors and hydraulics on full ,spend the next 3 hours cleaning the gutters. Then there are the car alarms …every car is fitted with these very loud multi sounded noises  that  can be heard miles away on a calm moonlit night.

The cathedral bells are turned ON at midnight and chime every 15 minutes .

And to top it off….there are so many cross breed dogs in La Paz, they love barking all night. There was one  I  am certain was a wolf with an amplifier..it made the loudest most sinister noise I have ever heard…..with obvious dog responses all over the city…..and that lasted most of the night.

And how do I know all this  ?  I was awake every moment…..counting  down  our 3.30am wake up call but also watching the action from 7 floors up in our hotel room when sleep just would not happen.

We are currently in a city two hours outside of Sao Paulo (Brazil) a city of over 11 million  but in reality 19.5 million when the metropolitan area is added to the  total  ……and from there I will bid you farewell and goodnight……..  with another story coming up soon.

Thanks for reading this huge 2500 word blog ! The longest I have ever written with my one finger typing. I hope you enjoyed it and look forward to hearing your comments.

Take Care

Lindsay Walker

24th August 2010

Everyone in their lifetime needs to spend time in Peru , and include in their visit a trip to see the gentle people who live on the reed islands of Lake Titicaca.

From the previous blog we travelled  from Arequipa at a very early hour to land 30 minutes later in Juliaca . Very few people got off our 737 flight and I was to quickly see why….. Juliaca is a dusty dirty barren place with what appears to be one of the driest and poorest places high on the Andean Plateau. An American gentleman standing a few feet away told his young son, if he misbehaved himself this would be  the place where he would  be sent to. I think the young fellow would be on his very best behaviour  judging by the startled look on his face.

The houses were made from mud bricks  no windows or doors and I would imagine at -5 degrees Celcius which is the current night time temperature , one would freeze. There was not running water and I saw no power lines going into the houses. People were sitting tending tethered sheep  cattle and in some cases goats, pigs Lamas and Alpacas. Because they live at close to 12,000 feet in altitude life is not rushed, but they have to be very clever and astute to survive.

Our 50 minute bus ride to  Puno certainly was an eye opener but nothing to a tour we went on the next morning out to the Islands Uros on Lake Titicaca.

The history is very interesting  when the Spanish finally drove the Inca people off the land and into the sea ( well lake) they hid in the reeds presumably in their small craft, living off  the bulbous roots of the reeds and living off the abundant fish life on this the worlds highest lake.

The size of this lake is impressive ….8560 square kms   divided  between Peru (4996 sq kms) and Bolivia  (3564 sq kms). The lake is 165 kms long and 60 kms wide.  It ranges from shallow to as deep as 280 metres. The water volume is 896,000,000 m3 give or take a few mouth fills.

The reeds where the people of Uros and many other people living on the reed islands live are maybe 2 metres deep  very similar to peat  swamps. They establish islands by driving stakes into  the maybe 3 metre square masses which are then roped together. It is obvious that the correct age  old techniques   to be used as if there is poor bindings then the whole island would either drift apart …or worst still sink.

On top of the peat  goes coverings of  the reeds criss – crossed  then a covering of finely chopped up reads to give an even surface. Almost like a stubble field of wheat or maise that has just been cut by a havester ….except in this case everything is done by hand.The sensation is like walking on a waterbed… and you cant walk fast!!!

Little houses, shops, cafes a church and a community hall  all made from the reeds have been made and artificial fish farms are doted around the island….just big holes with nets holding fish.

We only saw women, either elderly or young mothers….the men were either working in Puno , or were fishing or maybe tending the ” floating cows “. The children would be at college in Puno or at school on the floating islands. Everything including their floating Kontiki Like Boats  are made from natural materials . The women’s clothing were all in vivid colours as was their weaving and the many hand crafts that were for sale.

Very little has changed over the centuries…..fire which must have been something that was feared in earlier times has largely been replaced with small cookers, solo power for glow bulbs at night as well as the odd television set and stereo. Many children drowned in earlier times…now babies are taught to swim before they walk.

But it is the friendliness and the uncomplicated lives that belay the people of Uros that will be one the lasting memories. A brilliant blue sky all year round …..temperatures between 15 degrees C and 3 degrees C  at night . ….. I can understand why the simple life to these uncomplicated people must seem attractive…especially when the only exposure to the western world are the tourists who click cameras and pay token amounts for craftsmanship that often take weeks or months to make.

So would I trade lives with the people of Uros? May be to become self appointed coast guard  or bay watch person….  I know Dalaine wouldn’t want to be assistant to the Coast Guard or BWP.So the answer would have to be an emphatic no. Besides I would become very bored especially after getting very itchy feet with all the travel  we have done and have still to do.

Tomorrow we spend all day travelling by bus and ferry ( on Lake Titicaca ) on route to La Paz Bolivia. Where we will be even higher at 4,300 metres above sea level. And hopefully you will rejoin me soon to hear more of what has become a very interesting Journey Of Discovery.

Until then take great care of yourselves and tell those close to you that you love them and make every day count……even if you feel life is mundane  and repetitive. Enjoy the Very Simple things of Life!!!

Lindsay Walker

20th August 2010

Puno Peru.

No. E

I have never in the past subscribed to the notion of telling people where the ” best of anything ” can be found. Because everyone has their own preferences  and ideals. It is no good for example rattling on about a ” Paradise Place ” that is up the side of a mountain when you really wanted a surf beach at zero altitude.

So what I want to share with you is a quite beautiful place that has really captured both  my heart and Dalaine’s heart. Of the thirty something towns and  cities visited on the trip so far this one stands out and if you have a moment I will tell you why.

I am not the first person to extol the virtues of Arequipa… a city of close to 1 million inhabitants at a modest altitude of 2,380 metres or 7,500 feet above sea level . The first thing that impresses is the wide open spaces with several large placid ( sleeping ) volcanoes that watch over the city and give tourists like ourselves vital bearings as we walk up and down cobble stone streets within the historic city centre.

The second and to me the most important aspect was the magnificent blue cloudless skies that greet you every day…….300 plus days a year. Apart from afternoon showers for several hours each afternoon December through March, this area has one of the most brilliant climates in the world. ( Average all year round temperature is 20 degrees C ( 68 degrees Fahrenheit.)

Here in the middle of a cold southern hemisphere winter it is another shorts and t shirt day       ( from 9am to 4pm ) after that  it starts to cool down before  the sunsets just after 6.15pm . Apart from a light late afternoon cooling breeze there is just bright  warm sunshine….perfect conditions to do what ever the mood takes you.

There is just so much to see and do in this city. We arrived late Saturday afternoon from our flight from Cuzco ( another endearing city) to one of the largest traffic jams and traffic grid lock we have seen for some time ( well since Bogata anyway). It was actually so bad the taxi driver had to give up in  his attempt to get us within 2 blocks of hotel  , so fighting a sea of people walking towards us on Cobbled narrow footpaths with 60kgs of luggage  we could hardly have felt instant endearment for  this place.

What was going on….surely this was not your regular Saturday afternoon shopping rush hour.

We arrived at our hostel. The narrowest of  walkways with wrought iron railed gate. Activating a push button  bell  we were let in to a really nice hostel, very secure with great  bed, bathroom private TV and WIFI connections. For USD16 pp a night including breakfast , this was a great place to spend 4 nights.

With some excitement the young  lady who dispensed with ease our check in formalities telling us that there was going to be a big parade starting tomorrow around 11am…. My Spanish did  not allow me to find out what on earth they had been up to today ( Saturday) so we both thought we would   stroll up around lunch time and see a few floats maybe and it would all be over by 1pm.

How wrong we were …..before I elaborate  I need to tell you the reason behind this celebration. It was called the 470 year celebration, and I am told it is held every year in the middle of  August. And from what I can gather it involved  Franciso Pizarro a founding father of Peru.

It was not until 1523, when he was some 48 years old, that Pizarro embarked upon the adventure that was to lead to his lasting fame. In partnership with a soldier, Diego de Almagro, and a priest, Hernando de Luque, he made preparations for a voyage of discovery and conquest down the west coast of South America. Many hardships were endured along the Colombian coast during the first (1524–25) and second (1526–28) expeditions. Bartolomé Ruiz, who joined Pizarro and Almagro for the latter, sailed ahead and crossed the Equator, encountering a trading raft carrying embroidered fabrics and precious metals from Peru. He returned and led the expedition as far south as Ecuador. Pizarro and others remained on coastal islands while Almagro was sent back to Panama for reinforcements. The new governor of Panama, however, sent back orders that the expedition be abandoned in order that no more lives be lost. At this point Pizarro is reputed to have drawn a line on the ground with his sword, inviting those who desired wealth and glory to cross it. The “famous thirteen” who did cross the line continued their exploration of the coast as far as 9° S, obtaining distinct accounts of a great Indian empire as well as many Inca artifacts. They christened the new land Peru, probably a corruption of Virú, the name of a river. ( Thank You Google For your Help!!!)

Well we walked the 50 metres from our hostel room to the Square  ( Los Claustras de la Compania)….and our eyes just about popped our head.

The square was jammed packed with maybe 15,000 to 25,000 people….so much so it was a real battle to find space to view what was about to happen. With a little persuasion I was able to convince a security guard to allow me to sit in a chair ( Dalaine on the floor) in a marque right beside Peruvian Television ( who covered the event live )and get a brilliant view of proceedings.

This ” one hour parade ” actually went for 7 hours……we extricated ourselves after 5 hours of numb chilling noise that also permeated as far as our backsides(  a soreness rather than noise)

It was a most amazing display  of music, sound, visual , colour  and pride of this nations old and young. There were the military, schools , universities and college bands and traditional dances.

There were floats many with beauty queens and their princesses, even a float that sprayed  a high pressure mist of Brandy over the crowd. ( to their delight).

There were hundreds of Lions Members all resplendent in yellow with badges prominently and proudly displayed. It must have been a huge logistical operation to organise such an event…and to me even a bigger surprise to go back the next day and see the square in the same pristine condition it was when we first arrived.

There is so much to see here…..4 nights was hardly enough and only whetted our appetite to return. We want to  when  do come back want to get into the really poor areas and see what can be done through Compassion International.with children in desperate need.

I normally don’t go on ” Guided City Coach Tours” but an afternoon open double Decker bus tour for USD9 each seemed the best way to see much in the shortest space of time. It was great and I just don’t have the space to go into fully……surf ice to say it finished at 6.45pm  (it started at 12.30pm) ….the horse riding was conducted in almost pitch darkness….but much of what we saw was fascinating and very informative.

There is so much colour in this city……from the colour of the clothes of the people to the magnificent handicrafts on display.

Areqipa ( the white city) named after the white Seller building stone was badly effected by a major earthquake in 2001 but has been rebuilt even better than before.

The area is renowned for its rafting , hiking and mountain trekking. The Col-ca Canyon is the worlds deepest and is 100kms long and 3,400 metres deep ….another canyon close by but not commercialised is  at close to 4,000metres deep … that  is three times deeper than America’s Grand Canyon.

There is much Alpaca, Lama  and the  very highly prized Vicuna  fleeced garments for sale….but for the rare Vicuna you need very deep pockets…..we saw a small mustard coloured shawl selling for close to USD 1,000 .    The Vicuna is the smallest and rarest of South American Camelids….its hair is the finest in the world. Originally only reserved for Inca Royalty the animal was almost driven to extinction in the 1960′s .

Fortunately they survived and through careful management they now number over 150,000 of which 80 per cent are found in Peru.

There is so much still to tell…..but I hope it gives you a flavour of this intriguing place .

And finally price …..bananas 10 cents each  a good meal $3 each , Pure Fruit Juice  is incredibly cheap,  ice-creams   50 cents , rice is 70 cents/ kilo …taxi rides are very cheap   ……Peru living is very affordable  even at the higher end …..and with  a warm sun on your face touring does not get much better.

Tomorrow is a 3.30am start…the taxi arrives at our door at 4am ….all for a 6am 50 minute flight to Puno……and visit to Lake Titicaca and the reed  dwellers.

So take care….I will write again soon….

Lindsay Walker

Arequipa Peru

17th August 2010 .

I recently came across a very colourful and highly interesting publication ” The Hundred Places You Must Visit Before You Die”. As a travel agent for close to thirty years, I was well versed at sending lucky travellers to all corners of the Globe.

In whatever ” spare” time I had I would love pouring over glossy travel brochures and dream of being able to go one day and visit some of these magical places. One such place at the top of this magical wish list was Machu Picchu.

Our route from Ecuador took us from the countries capital Quito to Peru’s capital Lima . A very late flight ( arrival 1am) saw us stay near Lima Airport so that we could check in the obligatory 2 hours before we were due to leave at 9am for our flight to Cusco. Lima has never really enthralled me. Where we stayed it was obvious that the area was very poor . But the thing that gets me more was the heavy overcast weather conditions , something that Lima is well known for. In fact I think of all the world’s capital cities Lima has the least number of hours of sunshine pa.

Our arrival in Cusco was refreshing. Clear blue skies, an absolutely spectacular panorama as we skirted high mountain peaks racing through alpine valleys as we came in to land .The thing that impressed me most ( after the coastal cloud blanketing Lima had disappeared ) was how incredibly rugged and barren the mountains were with only very spasmodic signs of civilisation.It was so different to the Ecuadorian landscape  It was obvious from the multi colours of the rock formation that these mountains are rich in minerals and as a plea to my government and others contemplating mining pristine forests for minerals DONT …there are areas such as this part of the world that are vast and have been defoliated by nature….where mining would not even be noticed.

There is a considerable upgrade going on at Cusco Airport. Whilst there is currently only one main runway there are heavy earth moving machinery and a hive of activity going on at this new modern and efficient airport. Immediately I had a good feel about the place, but as in most cities of the countries in South America there is much poverty and life is hard. At close to 11`,000 feet you are reminded that you are in  oxygen deficit, and running around like a spring chicken is hardly wise and in fact it can be a straight out dangerous thing to do.

You also have to be very careful in what you eat ( and watch the water you drink) . There are a whole lot nasties. And you can get very sick and die. After the Manta Melt-down ( see a previous blog) we were even more aware of how frail our body immune system can be …….and seeing foreign tourists eating with the natives in the market places is just straight out asking for trouble. It might be that you are eating pure fruit mixes for example…no problem especially if the fruit is peeled , but the water used to wash the food processor could well be contaminated….for the same reason you wash your teeth in bottled water and use alcohol preparations to wash hands.

After all having paid good money to buy train tickets to Machu Picchu the next day ….we wanted nothing to ruin this once in a lifetime experience.

The start was going to be early (a taxi from our hostel ) at 6.30am, but because I was so parinode that we would not wake in time I turned the light on at 2.30am, and was all prepared to stay awake.  Dalaine had other ideas!!! And expressed these in several languages some not for reproduction on this family blogsite.

But suffice to say neither of us went back to sleep and we duly made the early morning transfer to Poroy Station about 18kms away. It is a wise idea to find out the cost before you go…..it depends how financial you look as to what your taxi fare is likely to cost!!!!   We must have looked poor as we were able to travel for S25 around USD8 which for the distance and the steep gradient was a fair price. But be aware some tourists may pay double that amount very easily.

The weather was beautiful with  blue sky with a hint of frost. It was cold but we knew it would warm up as the day went on.We had to wait for approx 30 minutes as the train crew attendents went about checking our travel documents against our passports. ( It is essential that you take these with you) .

Peru rail is a very efficient well run operation. The staff are very friendly , great smiles and personality and really genuinely want you to enjoy yourselves.

Precisely on time the train started to move out of the station.   The trains were spotless and an added feature on these carriages ( even though we had paid the budget back packer rate of USD 48 one way per person, we had the vista dome carriages which meant we could see the  mountain vista as we made our way towards MP. Just out of the station you came to appreciate how hard these Peruvian farmers have to work. All of the houses were  made from Mud Brick and rock, which also doubled for fences in fact anything building wise use this age old mud brick techniques.

The very old Peruvians have story books of hardship etched all over their faces …they make for wonderful photographs….if they allow you to snap them that is…..Some of my best facial shots have had to be ” bought” for maybe 50 cents and they are priceless to me anyway.

This area of land is refered to as the fruit and vegetable bowl of Cusco.Much of it is dug by hand ( you are talking acres of heavy peat type soil) so life must be hard. Often you see women with massive bags of produce walking to market resplendent in their Alpaca clothing of the brightest colours imaginable with their black felt hats.

We have truly fallen in love with these gentle people. We laugh with them ( even though their mouths are often devoid of teeth) we respect them for their strength and resilience and their very hard work ethic. There is no social welfare system here …..no work, no crop, no sale….no survival….it is as simple as that.

The almost 4 hour train ride took us through deep canyons, alongside a raging river….a river that on the 26th January of this year 2010 wiped out 2 bridges, hundreds of homes and made 1300 incredibly poor people even more so, when torrential rain hit the area.

The several thousand stranded tourists made their way out in time ( some bribed their rescuers to bring them out a whole lot sooner) and even now you can see scars of where the water had risen to. But amazingly life still goes on~!!!

We arrived finally at Machu Picchu station at 12.30pm , glad to get off our little train than meandered along at a modest 40kms an hour rocking back and forth.

Because by now were  getting excited at the prospect of seeing one of the great sights in the world . The station was festooned with brightly coloured stalls of Peruvian culture clothes, hats, wall hangings , jewellery….stall after stall after stall….

It was a case of following the crowds…long lines of tourists of every shape and form all with a renewed vigour to find the ruins of the once Inca Fortress of Machu Picchu. In our fervour to reach it we never realised that you needed two tickets one for the bus USD 28 return and one for entry to the Historical site ( a mere 50 metres from the bus station ( entrance way) The cost to the ruins are the pocket stopper USD 45 per person……but when you have come as far as you have come….you must go all the way. The trip up the hill ( I would say 1500 feet) can be done in an unbelievable 25 minutes by the locals.The summit is reached by climbing some pretty serious step stone steps and as we climbed (by bus) we could see some pretty worn out tourists either struggling up or almost falling down. To me it was the best way to bring on some serious heart problems.

The trip up was exhilarating ……..a narrow rough corrugated roadway that was clearly designed for one bus not two buses passing invariably on the most steepest, or dangerous overhang. Like all South American drivers they drive with breathtaking precision at high speed.   Twenty minutes we were at the top only a small number of steps to climb then WOW……..what must be one of the most breath taking sights in the whole world. It was simply jaw stopping.

I am going to attempt to add some photos to show you but believe me they do nothing to the incredible sensation you get seeing it first hand.

We walked around carefully and slowly. Two months ago the cartilage problems in Dalaines  right knee  would have made this day impossible. We are grateful through much prayer that today was possible for Dalaine to enjoy this indescribable day. It would not have been fair for her to miss out and I wouldn’t go without her.

We will never forget today nor will the limited numbers who are privileged to view Macchu Picchu. How the Inca people where able to build the fortress City is frankly hard to believe but from our short visit here we are awe inspired at the tenacity of these little Andean people.

Our trip back may have been a slight anticlimax, but for a fashion show put on by the trains 3 cabin staff after serving a meal.  Very tastefully done these Alpaca Garments are world class, and both the fabric and workmanship are exemplary.

Even the ride from  Machu Picchu to Ollantaytamo USD 71 per person  which took 2 hours followed by a free 2.5 hour bus trip over sections of cobblestones and judder bars could not diminish the wonderful day we had.

Arriving home at 11.30pm ( after a final USD 1.50 taxi ride meant little else but go to bed……and that previous night ( early morning) wake up all but forgotten and I am pleased to say was not repeated the next morning.!

Thank you for staying with this rather long blog…

I will write again soon

Lindsay Walker

Fridfay 13th August.

After the last rather traumatic blog things had to quieten down somewhat…and they have! It is interesting to note the comments…..and I am reminded of a quote someone once made that until you have walked in a persons shoes it is very hard to know what a person has walked before you. I cannot walk in most peoples shoes ( because of my grandee size 15 feet ) but most people can walk in mine. My brother Russell expressed some horror….well muted surprise… that someone with my experience and travel savy  could fall into the food poisoning trap as well as poke my nose into someone else’s problem ( the taxi hit and run)…..

Sometime life does not give you the luxury of thinking rationally for 5 minutes and weighing up the pros and cons…..sometimes you are in the midst of something for no fault of your own.

And of course it gives my many thousands of readers all around the world a chance to be a part of the action…..or just simply laugh at my expense.

Dalaine and I are currently sitting high around 10800 feet near Cusco In Peru. We have said our goodbyes to Ecuador and moved to country 4 of 10 we will visit whilst in South America.  We have sweltered on the Pacific coast of Ecaudor , we have been drenched in the mountains of Ecuador, we have criss crossed to and fro from side to side up and down . On a previous trip skirted the central highlands of Cuenca and Riobumba  riding on top of the trains roof… a train called the Autoferro and its more well known name The Ride Down the Devils Nose. I believe finally Health and Safety banned this practice so life is more mundane on what is rated as one of the greatest train rides in the world.

We have noted a huge difference between these two Andean neighbouring countries. The people for the most parts in Ecuador are unsmiling and unfriendly. On many occasion we had to question their honesty . In Manta they were bordering on the hostile side. The people seem incredibly lazy. There is a great replication of jobs. Were in the West there would be one person doing the job here there were two maybe as many as four. I don’t think they would be able to hold  down jobs ” in the real world”.

Nothing brought this to our attention more than the travel farce to fly between Quito and Lima. Whilst it is an international flight it is for all intention purposes an Airbus 319 with a maximum seat capacity of 124 or so seats that in most countries is a short range domestic flight.

So why then the 3 hour check in. I will tell you why. Lan Peru has two sets of standards….tell all the international One World Alliance Air Carrier members to be there 3 hours before so you can get really picky and see whether they can take Excess Baggage Charges from these so perceived Rich White People. It didn’t work when they tried it on me but it took a 15 minute shouting match to tell them there was no way I was going to pay USD120 for 10 kgs of excess luggage on an hour 50 flight.

Especially when we were to observe a Ecuadorian couple take 9 bags  ( including 3 on board) at no cost.

Then there is the total farce with Immigration as you leave 5 guys processing  a queue of maybe 100 taking 1 hour and  15 to clear with locals merely wandering up and pushing in ahead. Then taking up valuable time filling in miss completed departure cards or not having valid ID cards to travel.

Yes I know some of my readers  ( I know of one ) who will say yes it is all part of travel….. SWhen in Rome etc etc….. that maybe very true but it is all about  in proper staff attitude and very poor training and that in  time equates to very poor efficency .

Ecuador is about to get a new International airport at Quito costing US60 million it will have the capacity to handle 5 million passengers a year . Where these people are coming from I have no idea….the number one attraction is the Galapagos Islands  and that because of its fragile Ecological nature will not be increasing numbers from the 438 that visit the Galapagos each day that is 160,000 visitors a year. So the increase will not be from there.

But who cares, as long as you can extract a whole lot of money in departure tax……something that added to everything else makes me want to tell people NOT to visit Ecuador rather visit Peru and Colombia ….a country that is going out of its way to welcome tourists with a smile as well as a Military thumbs up!!!!

Tomorrow we travel by train and bus to Mucho  Picchu …..it is unseasonably warm calm and clear so look forward to my report tomorrow night.

So from a very nice but cool Cuzco Peru.

Lindsay Walker

11th August 2010.

After my last tongue in check Blog ( Assassination Attempt In Manta) you probably will not  believe what I am about to write now. But I can tell you that it is 100% the truth and not  “embellished ” in any way. Yesterday Saturday involved two flights…..the first  flying 45 minutes from Manta to Quito followed by another 45 minute flight from Quito to Guayaquil.For those of my readers who have travelled in these areas …you would ask the question why fly when you can get a three hour bus for US10 each.

A good question but when you don’t like bumpy buses and have a 6 coupon Aero Galapagos Air pass than flying is the preferred option.

The day had not started great as we were unsuccessful in withdrawing money from several ATM banking machines. The first was particularly unpleasant with a local man choosing to almost be in my back pants pocket , as I was loading PIN details in the machine , so with a few postulation gestures ( in full view of two ineffectual armed guards ) I eye balled him …. (his eyes were more in  my belly than my eyes) back to a more safer distance.

Anyway when he took off he gave me the words and the one fingered gesture to which I replied a number of retorts in as many languages that I could think of questioning his linage from the Amazonian Apes.

Pleasant stuff!

But the really drama took place when we arrived in Guayaquil. We got drenched in Quito in an afternoon thunderstorm when the landing aircraft decided that the furthest away parking spot should be just fine….. but for us transiting to another terminal at the other end of the airport, it meant getting  soaked if we were to make the tight connection to Guayaquil.

After haggling taxi prices at the Guayaquil airport, we took off at a great rate of knots  the ride bringing back memories of our time in Bogota with the mad dodgem drivers ( see a previous blog).

Well the driver got lost and during the discussions  on where we were, to where we should be, the car suddenly lurched forward. Initially I thought he had put the car into gear and then taken his foot off the clutch. But turning around we saw the car behind with a massive dint in the bonnet. Our taxi driver realising that his car had been hit, got out and started remonstrating with the driver , who then took off….and parked directly in front of us . Before any further action could be taken this crazy driver then proceeds to reverse his car into the front of the taxi.  Talk about finishing the job!!! He then takes off at high speed followed by our very agitated taxi driver who is screaming into his two way radio we assume calling up the police but maybe in hindsight maybe calling  every available yellow taxi ( they are everywhere) for their assistance. At the next traffic lights both the taxi driver and I try to wrestle this obviously either heavily drugged or  crazy guy out of the car. Other taxis try to block him in……he rides up on the footpath and gets away….we sprint back to the car…… this next section of the cash is crazy…..very high speeds missing pedestrians and running red lights……it was so much like a Hollywood thriller but we were in it.

Another set of traffic lights…I run up to cars in front and to either side of this crazy guy and gesture them in emphatic terms to stop where they are, then return to the hit and run car and reach in to turn off the keys to disable the car. The guy tries to put a choker hold on me will I am trying to break his nose with my fist. If I only had another 30 seconds……..

But the lights change to green…..and of course the blocking cars take off…followed by the crazy one, with me still half way in the car trying to stop him.

Fortunately I am able to break free without been towed along the ground…but what was to happen next was probably the scariest part. Rather than our taxi (with Dalaine in it) stop to pick me up he took off after the tearaway leaving me with the spit second thought ….what if we get separated there is no way we will find each other. Well I jumped in the first taxi and screamed for him to follow…..he didn’t need much prompting…I looked behind and there were taxis everywhere ” all keen to join  in the chase .”…word had got out!!!!

Well we finally cornered him when two motorcycle police happened to appear , but even then he tried to drive away despite having a military Long baton put around his neck, seat and seat belt. It took 2 policemen to remove and hand cuff him around a lamp stand, to the muted amusement and entertainment  of several hundred bystanders.

Eventually we released ourselves from the scene …..I am certain the drama  would have continued for several  more hours ….and despite us being miles from our destination we gave the driver $10 as we felt sorry for him …. who appeared more in a daze than really aware that we had paid him over the top for the part ride…..but a little price for a self staring  Hollywood Style Blockbuster Movie.

More drama was to follow but I am exhausted just telling you this far

Enjoy your day…For us Guayaquil Awaits!!!  On a hopefully quieter Sunday Afternoon

I will write soon

Lindsay Walker

8th August 2010.

We arrived in Manta very much under informed in what to expect. Apart from it being used as a United States Drug Reconnaissance Airborne Surveillance  base, as well as having a very substantial Tuna and Big Game fishing Industry that was about it. The weather in Quito fresh , cool unpredictable with heavy afternoon rainfalls , was a very far cry to the sandy arid barren landscape that greeted us as we landed on this coastal strip of Ecuador after lunch last Monday.

It was heavily overcast which does nothing to add appeal , there was a stench outside the taxi with the window down only maginally better when the window was wound up. It was hot, oppressive, humid ,dry, dusty and dirty. This was going to be a very interesting 5 days.

The whole purpose of our visit was going to see our little sponsored Girl Karola. We had been advised only several weeks before that she had left the Compassion Project Program but we would still be able to see her.

I had asked Compassion in Quito for another day in addition to the one normally that is allocated , simply to find out why she had chosen to opt out of the program she had so enjoyed and found so beneficial, as well as really get to know her and thank her for the much love she had expressed in her letters to us.

Anyway back to the Assassination story. For some reason Dalaine had decided to get several provisions….( food and drink) , it was safe enough , but every where we went in Manta we were stared….no glared at….but the hotel we stayed at was very nice ( there were no hostels here) so for 30 minutes she; for one of the few times in our trip, went out without me.

We always take ( and make) adequate provision to ensure we are kept safe….the most important one prayer.For some reason we had not specifically asked for safety on this day. Anyway off went Dalaine to a very small supermarket ( corner store ) and duly came back 30 or so minutes later with a number of things including a surprise treat in the form of some small peice of cake nicely wrapped up in tissue and in a black plastic bag. She said something that she had found this very sweet man selling food in a little shop on the way home ……which didn’t register at the time because if my memory serves me correctly the crumbs were being wiped of my whiskers at the same time as she muttered those words.

Within 6 hours I had the worst case of food poisoning imaginable. I had a massive fever and without going into all the gory details felt like death warmed up. Had my dear sweet wife been in a conspiracy with this little sweet seller of Manta hoping to add my name to the list of better known assassinations. Names like Abe Lincoln (John Wilkes) John F Kennedy(Lee Harvey Oswald) Robert Kennedy ( Sirhan Sirhan) Martin Luther King ( James Earl Ray ??) Should my name be added Lindsay Walker ( Dalaine Walker + Mana Mystery Man)???

Off course  Julius Caesar also came to mind during my time of delusion …he was killed at the same age as me 57…..but did he have a birthday coming up on the Friday just three days away…..and I bet he didn’t have to see a Compasssion child in two days.

Well I am pleased to say a very dear remorseful wife…(we have a great laugh about it) was outstanding in nursing and caring for me, plus the hotel kitchen staff who gave me a special “tea” as well as prescribed medicine plus 39 hours in bed. I lost an estimated 7 kgs in weight ,   a great bonus) but in all seriousness it shows despite being VERY careful with food and personal hygene it is so very easy to catch a bug. It is only today Sunday that I can say I am getting close to being back to normal……and realise the challenges of Peru and Bolivia will test our resolves even more.

Another Blog follows Shortly

In the meantime take great care love to hear from you

Lindsay Walker

Guayaquil Ecuador

08th August 2010